Photography Tips & Tutorials7175 articles

I have been seeing more and more prominent photographers integrating Topaz Adjust and other Topaz Plug-ins into their post-processing techniques. Topaz Adjust is a very powerful and easy-to-use plug-in that works with Photoshop and many other programs. Some photographers use Topaz to make subtle improvements and others use it to apply HDR effects and amazing exposure adjustments. I reached out to Topaz this week and they offered us a coupon for PictureCorrect readers. Adjust 4 Highlights: Single-image HDR capabilities, adaptive color processing for a wide range of color effects, highlight and shadow protection – helps reveal lost detail, and more.

As photographers we spend a lot of time playing with light. Light is our medium, we talk about its color, its quality, its size and its softness. And a lot of our talk is about how to change it. One of the first things that a novice photographer tires of and wants to change is the boring, flat light that their camera flash produces. While there are any number of devices that can filter or shape light one of the biggest groups of light changers are the remote flash triggers. At the most basic level one of the fastest ways to change flash light from flat and boring is to move its position. Once the flash is moved off of the top of our camera it loses the vital connections required to make it fire.

Maybe you have questioned as to why quite a few of your pictures seem lifeless, monotonous or empty? Look at the picture; examine if the eyes of your subject have a catchlight. If perhaps it doesn’t this could possibly be one of the causes for what reason your portrait is visually monotonous. A catchlight, or often called eyelights, is referred to the depiction of the chief source of light that tends to make an unusual glimmer or flicker. This glint could be frequently located in the eyes of the subject per se. This may be a fundamental factor in contributing life or tone towards your portrait and is seen usually at 10 o’clock or 2 o’clock in the eyes, where it animates your subject most effectively.

A Deeper Frame: Creating Deeper Photographs & More Engaging Experiences by David duChemin was released today and discusses the ways in which we express vision in photography. You’ll find this book refreshingly free of that word, vision, in fact. Here the topic is simple, though for something so simple it amazes me that it’s so […]

120 film is a type of medium format film that was introduced in the beginning of the 20th century by Kodak. At the time, it was used all over the world by amateurs as well as professionals. Later on 120 film was gradually replaced by 35 mm film as the most popular format. Today the digital cameras have taken over and film photographers are rare. But there is actually a small community still committed to the 120 film format. And according to me, this community is growing and 120 film is once again gaining more attention. As an effect to the accelerating digitalization in the society, the retro trend has grown stronger during the last decade. And as a result of that, analog film photography has come back into fashion.

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Dog agility photography is not the easiest of skills to master. The speed of the dogs, together with the pace at which dogs change in the ring, means the photographer needs to be on the ball all the time, and ready for any eventuality. When the dogs start, get your focus on the first jump or obstacle. Do this by focusing on the top bar of the jump, or the equipment where you want to capture the dog. With a DSLR this is easy to achieve, by half pressing the shutter button. Then when the dog is in position to jump, fully press the shutter. Remember, due to the speed of the dogs, you need to release the shutter just before the action you want to capture. Then move onto your next jump and next. With practice, this becomes easier.

If you are interested in furthering your skills in HDR photography, this course can help. Trey Ratcliff just announced the release of an extensive HDR Photography training course which has received very good reviews. HDR photography (high dynamic range) is a set of techniques that allow a greater dynamic range of luminance between the darkest […]

If you’re new to photography and don’t know the correct way of holding your DSLR, then I recommend that you continue to read this article. Don’t underestimate its importance. Your inability to grip your camera properly will indeed affect the results of your photography attempts. The Importance of Holding Your DSLR Correctly Holding your camera […]

So just what is a Lensbaby? Lensbaby is actually an entire line of image modifying products based around three distinct lenses. The concept is that the three core lenses are able to bend, rotate or flex with the outcome that only selected portions of the scene will be in focus. The photographer has control over the point in the scene that is in focus and how large that area is. The three core lenses, or more accurately lens bodies, are The Muse, The Composer and The Control Freak. All three lenses mount to a camera just like the standard kit lens does. There are major differences in camera handling once a Lensbaby is on the camera. First, say goodbye to autofocus, there isn’t any.