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Photographing sunsets and sunrises can produce some of the most beautiful images you will take. Surprisingly, these wonderful scenes are not that difficult to photograph. This article will give you a few tips to make your sunset and sunrise images the best they can be. The best places to take the pictures would be beaches, plains, deserts, or anywhere there is less obstruction of the views. However, you can get great sunset and sunrise pictures anywhere if you are creative and know a little about picture composition.
A night-time photo shoot often presents a problem or two, especially when including an element of interest in the background such as architecture. In most cases a tripod or some other method of stabilizing the camera will be necessary due to the slow shutter speeds used with low-light photography. But even with a tripod, our subject needs to remain somewhat statuesque to prevent blurring. If you’ve ever tried portraits at night, you’ll know that getting clean sharp shots is almost impossible when there’s any kind of movement.
The RAW format is a digital photographer’s friend. If you shoot for commercial purposes (eg. to sell your images to a stock image library) shooting in RAW allows you to squeeze every single drop of quality from your shots. For a JPEG image, the image is first captured by the sensor, then the camera processes the image by applying a contrast curve to it, sharpens it (unless you turned off sharpening), converts it into 8-bits and then stores it in the memory card by compressing it. When this compression is performed, a little bit of image quality is thrown away, in order to achieve a smaller file size.
Today I had the pleasure of interviewing Raluca Mateescu, a talented photographer based in Bucharest, Romania. The photos she uploads to our photo sharing site always receive a great deal of attention so I was pleased she agreed to answer some questions for our readers. How would you describe your photographic style? From flowers to trains, from deserted landscapes to street portraits, from black and white to HDR, I’ve tried it all so far, so cannot honestly say there is a definitive style to my photography.
To pick out what I think the best cameras are in each of these categories, I spent countless hours researching different websites gathering as much information as possible to find the best camera in each category. These six cameras were the ones that consistently came up as being the best in their class. This is just a guide I did for fun in my spare time, so please take it as a grain of salt. Oh, a quick note… if there’s one thing to remember when shopping for new a camera, it’s that megapixels do not matter.
There are many instances where you may need to enlarge an image, be it a web image that you need to print for a project or a low quality digital photograph that you would like printed onto canvas or photographic paper for display purposes. There are many problems that are encountered while trying to enlarge […]
Light and Land, Landscapes in the Digital Darkroom by Michael Frye is the newest ebook to the Craft & Vision library. Michael, a photographer based on the doorstep of Yosemite Nation Park, knows his stuff about inspired landscapes and the post-processing techniques that make his vision a reality. Light and Land is written specifically for […]
Today I had the pleasure of interviewing Nathan McCreery, a professional landscape photographer based in Clovis, New Mexico. He is well known for creating exquisite photographs of the American West. He is often one of the most popular members on the photography network. How would you describe your photographic style? I would describe my photographic style as the “classic landscape”. I have been influenced, very heavily, by the work of Edward Weston, Morley Baer, Philip Hyde, Eliot Porter, Ernst Haas, and of course Ansel Adams. One of my goals, in the photographic realm is to be a master printer.
Macro Photography can be an art in and of itself. Some of the best photos I’ve seen have been macro photos. Taking macro photos can be challenging if you’ve never attempted it before. Many times the beginner gets frustrated when they are unable to get their subject fully in focus. Other times the beginner can’t seem to take a macro photo that isn’t blurry. Then there’s the frustration with taking a macro photo that isn’t lit properly. Macro photography differs from regular photography in that the subject is usually smaller and requires a lens that is capable of close-up or macro photography, usually at a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio.
Cumulative exposure can be defined as follows: cumulative exposure is the amount of exposure to light, given to a light sensitive paper, from the time being removed from its light tight box, exposed, manipulated, developed, washed and eventually stopped. From this point (fixation) the paper is no longer light sensitive, and will not be affected by further exposure. It is possible at this point that the paper may have been exposed for a total of ten minutes, accumulated through all these manipulation and processing steps.
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